How to Clean Nubuck: Shoes, Boots and Bags

Nubuck looks amazing when it is new: soft, velvety and evenly coloured. Then life happens. A splash of coffee, a muddy walk, a rainy commute, a dark ring where your jeans rub against a handbag.

The good news is that most nubuck problems can be fixed at home if you use the right tools and avoid a few common mistakes. This guide shows you exactly how to clean nubuck shoes, boots and bags, from a quick daily brush to removing oil, water marks, scuffs and even mould.

Before you start: what makes nubuck different

Nubuck is top-grain leather whose surface has been lightly sanded into a short, velvety nap (if you want the background, see what is nubuck leather). That open surface is why it feels so soft, and also why it:

absorbs water, oil and dirt quickly,
gets flattened and shiny with friction,
is easily damaged by the wrong products.

So the golden rule of nubuck care is: work dry first, use as little liquid as possible, and never use regular shoe polish or wax on standard nubuck.

One exception: oiled or waxed nubuck (common on work boots) has a slightly greasy, darker surface. Do not use a dry eraser on it. Wipe it with a damp cloth and use a product made for oiled leather instead.

The nubuck cleaning kit

You do not need much:

Nubuck brush. Crepe rubber or soft nylon bristles for everyday brushing. A brush with brass bristles on one side is useful for reviving a badly flattened nap, but use it very lightly on nubuck.
Nubuck or suede eraser. A block of rubber that rubs out dry marks and scuffs.
Clean white cloths or microfibre towels.
Cornstarch or talc for fresh oil and grease.
Suede and nubuck cleaner (shampoo). A pH-balanced foam or liquid for deep cleaning.
Nubuck protector spray. A water and stain repellent made for nubuck and suede.
Shoe trees or paper to keep shape while drying.

Avoid household cleaners, dish soap in large amounts, bleach, ammonia, saddle soap and leather creams meant for smooth leather. They can strip colour, leave rings or mat the nap.

Daily care: the 30-second brush

The best way to keep nubuck clean is to stop dirt building up.

Let mud or dust dry completely.
Brush lightly in one direction with a soft brush to remove loose dirt.
Finish with short back-and-forth strokes to lift the nap evenly.

Do this after every few wears, and your nubuck will need deep cleaning far less often.

How to clean nubuck shoes and boots step by step

Step 1: Prepare

Remove the laces. Insert shoe trees or stuff the shoes with paper so they keep their shape. Work in good light.

Step 2: Dry brush

Brush the whole shoe to remove dust and dried mud. Pay attention to seams and the area where the upper meets the sole.

Step 3: Erase marks

Rub the nubuck eraser over scuffs, shiny patches and dry stains with gentle, firm strokes, like using a pencil eraser. Brush away the crumbs. Repeat if needed.

Step 4: Deep clean (only if needed)

If the shoes are still dirty or stained:

Lightly and evenly dampen the whole panel with a damp cloth or sponge. Wetting just one spot is what causes water rings.
Apply a small amount of nubuck cleaner to a soft brush or sponge.
Work it in with gentle circular motions, panel by panel.
Wipe away foam and dirt with a clean, damp cloth.

Step 5: Dry slowly

Leave the shoes to dry naturally at room temperature for 24 hours, with the shoe trees or paper inside. Keep them away from radiators, heaters, hair dryers and direct sun. Heat makes leather shrink, stiffen and crack.

Step 6: Restore the nap

Once fully dry, brush again to lift the nap. If it still looks flat, very lightly use the brass side of the brush, or hold the shoe over steam from a kettle for a few seconds (at a safe distance) and then brush.

Step 7: Protect

Spray an even coat of nubuck protector from about 15–20 cm away. Let it dry, then add a second light coat. Our guide is nubuck waterproof? explains how often to reapply.

How to clean nubuck with household items

If you do not have a kit, a few household items work in a pinch:

Pencil eraser (clean, white): for small dry scuffs.
Cornstarch or baby powder: for fresh oil and grease.
White vinegar: a cloth lightly dampened with white vinegar can lift water stains and salt marks. Let it dry, then brush.
A soft toothbrush: for brushing small areas and seams.
A tiny amount of mild soap in water: for a light deep clean, used on the whole panel and rinsed with a damp cloth.

Always test first on a hidden area.

How to remove common stains

Oil and grease

Oil is nubuck's worst enemy because it sinks deep into the open fibres.

Act fast. Blot (do not rub) any excess with a dry paper towel.
Cover the stain with a thick layer of cornstarch or talc.
Leave it for at least a few hours, ideally overnight, so it draws the oil out.
Brush off the powder. Repeat if the mark is still visible.
For older oil stains, use a dedicated suede and nubuck degreaser, following the label.

Water spots and rings

Water rings form because the wet patch dries with a hard edge. To fix them:

Dampen the whole panel evenly with a damp cloth or sponge.
Let it dry naturally.
Brush to restore the nap.

Salt stains (winter)

Brush off dry salt.
Mix equal parts white vinegar and water.
Dab the solution over the stain with a cloth, then over the whole panel to avoid rings.
Let it dry and brush.

Mud

Let mud dry completely, then brush it off. Wiping wet mud pushes it deeper into the nap.

The same methods work on suede, with a slightly firmer brush. See nubuck vs suede for the differences.

Ink

Ink is hard to remove at home. Try the eraser gently, then stop. A professional leather cleaner has the best chance.

Denim dye on bags

Light nubuck handbags often pick up blue dye where they rub against jeans. Use the eraser first. If the mark stays, a suede and nubuck cleaner applied to the whole area may lift it. To prevent it, spray the bag with protector and avoid carrying light bags against new, dark denim.

Mould

Mould appears when nubuck is stored somewhere damp.

Take the item outside and brush off the mould, wearing a mask and gloves.
Wipe the area with a cloth lightly dampened with a mix of white vinegar and water, or with diluted isopropyl alcohol.
Let it dry fully in fresh air, out of direct sun.
Brush and protect.
Store it in a dry, ventilated place with a breathable bag, not plastic.

Fixing scuffs, scratches and a flattened nap

Light scuffs: use the nubuck eraser, then brush.
Shiny, flattened areas: brush firmly, or very lightly with brass bristles. Steam can help lift the fibres.
Deeper scratches: brush the nap around the scratch to blend it in. For a missing patch of nap, some restorers very lightly buff with fine sandpaper, but this is a last resort.
Faded colour: a nubuck renovator spray (with colour) can refresh faded areas. Test the shade on a hidden spot first.

Conditioning nubuck: yes, but lightly

Nubuck does not need the heavy conditioning that smooth leather does. Thick creams and oils clog the nap and darken the colour.

If nubuck feels dry or stiff, use a light conditioning spray made for nubuck. Apply a fine mist, let it dry and brush. For oiled nubuck, use a product made for oiled leather.

Can you wash nubuck in the washing machine?

No. A washing machine soaks the leather, which can shrink it, stiffen it, dissolve glues and ruin the shape of shoes and bags. Detergents can also strip colour. Clean nubuck by hand, panel by panel, as described above.

The only exception is some trainers made mostly of synthetic "nubuck-look" materials, where the brand says machine washing is allowed. Always check the care label.

5 mistakes that ruin nubuck

Using shoe polish, wax or regular leather cream on standard nubuck. It mats the nap and leaves dark, greasy patches.
Using too much water or wetting only one spot, which leaves rings.
Drying with heat, which shrinks and cracks the leather.
Ignoring the nap. Never brushing lets it get flat and shiny.
Waiting too long on stains, especially oil.

How often should you clean nubuck?

Brush: after every few wears.
Eraser: whenever you see a mark.
Deep clean: only when needed, perhaps once or twice a season for shoes in heavy use.
Protective spray: before first use, then every few weeks in wet seasons.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best way to clean nubuck?

Brush it dry, use a nubuck eraser on marks, and only deep clean with a nubuck shampoo when needed. Always dry it slowly and protect it with a spray afterwards.

Can I use water to clean nubuck?

A little, yes. Dampen the whole panel evenly rather than one spot, use a nubuck cleaner, and let it dry naturally.

How do you get oil out of nubuck?

Blot it, cover it with cornstarch or talc, leave it for several hours, then brush. Repeat or use a nubuck degreaser for stubborn stains.

Can I use suede cleaner on nubuck?

Yes. Most cleaners are made for both suede and nubuck. Just brush nubuck more gently.

How do I restore the nap on nubuck?

Brush it once it is fully dry. For a stubborn flattened nap, use light strokes with a brass brush or a little steam, then brush again.

Can I use leather conditioner on nubuck?

Not regular creams. Use a light conditioning spray made for nubuck, and only when the leather feels dry.

Conclusion

Cleaning nubuck is mostly about patience and the right tools: brush often, erase marks early, use as little water as possible, dry slowly and protect. Follow these steps and your nubuck shoes, boots and bags will stay soft and good-looking for years.

Building a leather goods brand? Imran Partners sources nubuck and other leathers from verified manufacturers in Pakistan, and we can include care cards with your private label products. Read our nubuck buyer's guide or request a quote to start.